2019 - Goodbye to all that

I've been avoiding doing any sort of round up post of the last decade and am not about to start now in any serious way. It's the decade in which I became middle aged with all that that entails in the way of loss, aches, and pains. It's also a decade that I spent in a job I really didn't like much (it paid the bills and was in the right place, I worked with some great people and I'm grateful for that but if I'd known how happy redundancy would make me I would have gone long ago).

It is good to have this blog, started in 2009, to look back on for reading and other highlights, but right now I mostly want to be looking forward because despite a lot of the crap going on around us right now (and still having the absolutely revolting cold that made me a misery over Christmas) I'm personally feeling hopeful for my future in a way I haven't for a long time.

I'm also in the Scottish borders, which is one of my favourite places anywhere with D (just as we were 10 years ago) with good company, wine, and food, to look forward too tonight. And a lot of good books - some that I bought with me, and some that I bought from the magnificent Main Street Trading Company in St Boswells.

Whatever 2020 brings, I know it's got some great reading in it.

With all of that in mind I hope everybody reading this is also feeling more or less hopeful for what the New Year might bring, and has as many books lined up to look forward to as I do. Happy New Year.

Christmas Books

It's been quite a subdued Christmas this year - my mother has really unpleasant back problems, my sisters partner unexpectedly died earlier this year, my partners father is 93 and has been in and out of hospital. I've had a really nasty cold (and no job), and my mothers dog has had diarrhea (probably because she ate more turkey than the rest of us put together along with quite a few pigs in blankets).

Despite that it's also been a really good Christmas for me, mostly because I've had time to appreciate the people around me. If that sounds a bit trite after 20 years of being lucky to get 2 days off together for Christmas I can't tell you the difference it makes, or how much more I've noticed the effort my mother (particularly struggling with back pain) goes to.

She is also the source of a lot of the books I was given and I really appreciate those too.

I'm excited by all these (sorry for the terrible picture, I'm blaming the cold, and I'm away from home for now so can't get a better one - they'll all get more attention soon). The book at the bottom of the pile is Kate Young's 'The Little Library Year' which is an absolute delight - and apparently half price at the moment in Waterstones. I can particularly recommend it for both tempting looking recipes and being lovely to read. Maybe because Young is from Australia and when she came to the U.K. our seasons were new to her, or perhaps because of the way she takes books as an inspiration as well, it all feels fresh.

The Kate Hawkings book 'Aperitif' is also a joy to read. Mostly though I've been spending time in Kevin Crossley-Holland's folktales. Technically this is a children's book, which has been perfect for someone with a disgusting cold, but it's not childish, and I really love a good folk or fairy tale.

Voyaging Out by Carolyn Trant was a present to myself. It's a history of British women artists from suffrage to the sixties and looks amazing. I haven't bought it away with me but its a big part of my plans for January.

Bollinger Grand Année The Frayed Atlantic Edge, and Happy Christmas

It’s Christmas Eve and I’m at my mothers drinking champagne. Specifically Bollinger’s Grand Année  2008*. We have a tradition that we drink the nicest bottle I have on Christmas Eve. It’s very civilised (though now I’m out of the wine trade the best bottle might not be quite as grand as this next year).

Selfish or not I think the best bottles are better shared with the few, rather than the many - although wine is always better shared. I don’t really hold with waiting for a special occasion for good bottles either. The bottle can be the occasion, or choose a day, like today, to carve out a little bit of time to enjoy something good.

The Frayed Atlantic Edge has been sitting next to my bed for a while now, I’ve dipped in and out of it, and I plan on it being my New Year read. I could start it in earnest tonight but I know there’s a lot of books with my name on them under the tree (or specifically the footstool the dog likes to lounge on) which means I’ll be to distracted by them tomorrow to concentrate on any one thing.

I hope everybody reading this is enjoying similarly nice things tonight and looking forward to good things tomorrow whatever they may be. Happy Christmas.

*It’s rich, full bodied, and fruity with a yeasty character (brioche and toast) and every bit as good as you would hope. I absolutely believe it’s worth the money, though I don’t always think it’s worth that much of my money. I’m drinking this in circumstances where I can think about it and appreciate it. If there were more of us it would be a decent N.V (Taittinger, Pol Roger, Laurent Perrier, Bollinger - all excellent and widely available, there are many more smaller labels from excellent growers worth exploring as well) any good champagne is a treat, this Bollinger is my wine nerd treat.

Sylvia Townsend Warner and batch made Martinis

Because I like the preparation for Christmas more than the actual event I’m already more or less organised (presents wrapped or distributed, all but ready to head off to my mother’s tomorrow- and yes, this is probably much easier because I don’t have children) and looking forward to Boxing Day and beyond.

If 20+ years in retail taught me anything about this time of year it’s that preparation really helps, as do well managed expectations, and not worrying about the things you didn’t get round too (this year was going to be all about biscuits but things kept getting in the way, and if I really want gingerbread I can make some in January after we’ve eaten the Christmas cake).

For now I’m done with running around, not least because this cold I’ve come down with is making me feel like a dish rag. More than that I want to spend some quality time with my Christmas tree before I have to say goodbye to it, and whilst I’m doing that I’m planning some book buying (for I have book tokens to spend, and it’s fun). I’ve been playing with a Persephone wish list, but I’m particularly excited by some of the books from Handheld press. Particularly Sylvia Townsend Warner’s ‘Of Cats and Elfin’ coming out on the 20th of January.* There’s a discount available on Kingdoms of Elfin and a collection of Warner’s letters until the end of December.

The Handheld list is really worth a good browse if you’re not already familiar with it, and it’s going from strength to strength, so definitely sign up for the newsletter. There’s more Women’s Weird coming in the autumn, and as the last collection edited by Melissa Edmundson was so good this is big news.

Batch made cocktails are another good bit of forward planning for the next week or so. The Martini family lends itself particularly well to being made ahead like this, and are useful for parties, or just for having to hand. It’s simply a case of mixing your preferred Martini (in my case a Gin and It, Negroni’s are also going to work like this) in bottle rather than glass quantity. Add about 10% of the liquid volume in water (this is to adjust for the dilution that ice would normally cause as you stir your drink) and pop it in the freezer.

When you take it out the freezer it’s worth letting it defrost just a little biting your not going to finish the lot in one go. If you don’t you get a lot of alcohol (which hasn’t frozen) in the first drinks you pour, and a lot less (with more ice) every time after that it comes out the freezer.

*I actually have a review copy of this so I know it’s amazing. The other thing about that January date is that it’s good to have something to anticipate to ward of those post holiday blues.

Wines for Christmas Day

I’ve been wary about writing a general guide for wine at Christmas - it’s something that was always a  bit of a bone of contention at work - because one size does not fit all. There are general rules about wine and food matching, but there are also a lot of variables so bespoke advice is better. Those variables include, but are not limited to, what you’re eating, how it’s flavoured, how many people there are, how many of them are drinking alcohol, what people like, what traditions people have, how much money they wish to spend, and how serious they are about their wine.

People who are serious about their wine will have all of this covered, because we’ve been thinking about it for weeks now. If you need a last minute present for someone who you know is a wine enthusiast when you are not, go somewhere you can get advice.

A decent wine merchant or dedicated wine specialist will be able to tell you what they have that’s interesting or unusual. When you’re selling it’s considered bad etiquette to ask how much someone wants to spend, but it can save a lot of time if you say the figure you have in mind. There’s a lot of good stuff to be had between £10 and £20. Do also look at dessert wine and sherry. It might not be your thing, but people like me love it.

Champagne. As a guideline, the more people there are the less I would spend per bottle, the reason being that the more conversation there is the less people are paying attention to what they’re drinking. If you have 20 people round for Christmas a case of a decent sparkling wine will be perfect and it’s not necessarily a compromise on quality. Quite a few of the big champagne houses make sparkling wines in other parts of the world and these are worth looking for too. I particularly like Jansz.

If you have a really nice champagne you want to drink, consider having it on Christmas Eve when all the chores are done and you have a bit of peace before the chaos of the next day. If it’s you on your own, or just 2 of you, half bottles are brilliant. If it’s got to be fizz for breakfast consider something sweeter like an Asti, or a sparkling moscato. They’re lower in alcohol, and don’t have the mouth puckering acidity of champagne which is quite hard work first thing. If you’re having Bucks Fizz use fresh (ideally freshly squeezed orange juice) it is so much better.

Turkey works well with a whole lot of wines. Chardonnay in many of its forms works well with it - is go for something big and buttery, and not be shy of the oak. Towards the other end of the scale a citrusy Macon Village is also good. Pinot Noir is a classic red match, however a good fruity new world Sauvignon blanc, an apricot filled Viognier, Rioja (red or white), a decent Chianti, Claret, most Rosé’s (according to taste) or a Pinot Grigio if you want something fairly neutral are all going to be fine. As will plenty of other wines. Frankly there’s so much flavour on the plate that a specific match is going to be tough. Go with something you know you like.

Goose will prefer a red, again a Pinot Noir would be a classic match - new world ones will be fruitier than old world ones, how you choose between them comes down to preference, budget (if you’ve paid for a goose don’t be mean about the wine though) and the trimmings. Rioja will be good here too, and Barolo (or a good Nebbiolo from elsewhere, if you’re lucky enough to find some please tell me). A good Claret won’t let you down (but again, be prepared to spend on it if you’re going that way).

With Beef a new world Cabernet, a Shiraz (Australia or Cotes Du Rhône - also fine with the turkey) or whatever you’re preferred full bodied red might be, will all be good.

Port is a Christmas staple, if it’s red port (Ruby, L.B.V, single Quinta, or vintage) look to see if the bottle says it’s filtered or not (Ruby port and a lot of L.B.V is). Filtered won’t need decanting, unfiltered means a sludgy bitter sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Decanting isn’t difficult but you don’t necessarily want another job to add to your to do list either.

Tawny port is aged and a little bit more like a sweet sherry. Both will be good with cheese, the tawny will be better with cake/pudding/mince pies. Also have a look at Australian Liqueur Muscat’s which are a similar beast. I like a Sauternes, often instead of a pudding- it’s a great cheese match, but it won’t particularly like mince pies etc. A good sweet Tokaji is the middle ground between them.

Finally, for this post - there’s a lot more I could say about wine - consider the non drinkers and potential hangovers. Good coffee, tea, fruit juice, sparkling water (excellent mixed with fruit juice or cordials) grown up cordials, and alcohol free punches are excellent options for everyone.

The Wolves Of Willoughby Chase and Irish Spiced Port

For the first time it felt a bit odd not to be working in retail today - I’ve obviously forgotten the worst part of these next few days, and am instead remembering the camaraderie and fun of my earlier Oddbins Christmases when the craziness was both enhanced and muted by fine wine and relative youth. Maybe it’s the lurking cold that’s responsible for the nostalgia. Fortunately a cup of tea and a nice lie down cured the feeling, if not the cold.

The cold has had me thinking about another joy of Christmas, and of feeling slightly ill, and that’s the excuse/opportunity for adult reading/re reading of children’s books. ‘Slightly Foxed’ reminded me of Joan Aiken’s ‘The Wolves of Willoughby Chase’, and that it was part of a whole sequence of books (which I did not know), and really made me want to revisit it.

For those of us who go home for Christmas, or to someone else’s home, there’s always the chance of rediscovering our own much loved children’s classics, or those belonging to younger siblings (there’s a considerable age gap between me and my half sister and brother) cousins etc. I got a second run at Terry Pratchett this way.

Tonight though it’s the gothic atmosphere of Willoughby Chase that’s appealing - it feels right for the solstice, and it’s probably now just obscure enough to be a safe present to bemuse a friends child with (I got a good few of my favourite childhood books like this; duty gifts mostly, from virtually unknown relatives or visitors who had plumped for a safe looking classic).

The drink is another one from Signe Johansen’s ‘Spirited’. It sounds a lot like smoking Bishop, but it’s a slightly simplified version, not as strong, and the quantities given are for 1, all of which sound like improvements to me. It’s also a great way to use up any port that’s hanging around.

You boil a kettle and pour about 70cl of hot water into a heat proof glass along with a teaspoon of light brown sugar. Take a thick slice of unwaxed lemon and stud the rind with 4 cloves, add to the glass, stir everything well, add 70cl of Port, give it a final stir, and drink whilst hot.

Signe Johansen’s Spirited and her Agua de Jamaica

It continues to be really very pleasant not working in retail over Christmas, but it’s made me more sympathetic towards those who do than ever. The city centre is taking on a bedraggled end of the party look. Sales have started in a lot of places, and we’ve reached the point where you get to buy what’s left as delivery dates pass. 

In retail the next few days are just about taking what money you can and getting through it all, and because that’s been me for the last 2 decades it’s easy to forget that some people are only just starting their plans as hey finish work for the year. 

With that in mind ‘Spirited’ might be an extremely useful book to have around over the next few weeks. Johansen’s books have always been good and her approach to drinks is no exception. She’s intent on breaking down the slightly matcho image of the mixologist with a lot of specialist equipment and replacing it with something much easier to do at home,

I also really like that she places proper emphasis on non alcoholic drinks, especially at a time of year when there’s so much pressure to drink a bit more than is sensible. There are a selection of recipes from ‘Spirited’ Here which give a good idea of what to expect from the book, and as with the hibiscus based recipes in Mark Diacono’s ‘Sour’ it’s the Agua de Jamaica that’s caught my eye.

There’s a lot to be said for drinks where the effort (although it hardly qualifies as such) can be done ahead of people being around. This calls for a couple of hibiscus tea bags, half a small pineapple sliced but not peeled, a 330ml bottle of ginger beer, a couple of untaxed limes sliced up, and ice.

Put the teabags in a heatproof pitcher with a litre of boiling water infuse for 10 minutes. Remove the teabags and add the pineapple then leave to completely cool. Add the other ingredients, taste and adjust as needed, add some ice and it’s good to go. 

Murder at Christmas and Vin Chaud

I’m specifically mentioning ‘Murder at Christmas’, which is the latest in Profile books now annual series of crime anthologies, but what I really thinking about here is a good comfort read. For me that would almost certainly be a Georgette Heyer, but it might be something like ‘The Dark Is Rising’ or indeed some Classic Crime.

I bought ‘Murder at Christmas’ because I couldn’t resist the cover, or the names on it. It’s a decent collection, and anyone who likes a bit of golden age crime will enjoy it. I do think the British Library anthologies do this just a little bit better - one or two of the stories in here were a bit patchy, but I’ve read all of those already and there are definite gems in this too, and it was easy, comfortable, reading.

I’m really enjoying not working this Christmas, it’s been really good for me physically and mentally. I’m not bone weary, aching, covered in cuts and bruises, stressed, or especially tearful. Nobody has made me particularly angry or frustrated - and if they did I could walk away with impunity, which feels amazing. It’s still a difficult time of year. 

Yesterday I bought a new address book, partly because addresses are spread through note books, old diaries, scraps of paper, and years old messages on social media that take forever to track down. Partly because people move and my old address book was a mess of crossed out names. Mostly though because every time I look through that old book now I see a list of people who have died and it’s depressing. 

Inevitably, despite all the glitter and sparkle of the season, and sometimes because of it, there’s a lot of emotion and a lot of memories to deal with. There’s also a good bit of what might of beens and the stress of needing to keep up a festive front. It’s not an easy time, and I feel like this is the point that it really hits home. By this time next week it’ll all be over anyway, and we can start looking forward to new beginnings. 

I keep reading things that say Mulled wine is now distinctly passé whilst trying to sell me on a new cocktail, but I’m having non of it. I’m all for mulling beer, cider, stout, spiced spirit concoctions, hot vermouth - all of it, as innovative or traditional as you like (now I’m not working in wine I’ve even relaxed my views on the pre made stuff) but what’s not to love about a warm, gently spicy, drink.

I really like this Vin Chaud recipe from Ambrose Heath’s ‘Good Drinks’ because it should be easy to scale up or down and it’s simple. I’d recommend using any bottle that labels itself Good Ordinary Claret, an Eastern European Pinot Noir if you know it’s decent, a basic Beaujolais, or a Cabernet Sauvignon/merlot heavy blend from the Languedoc. 

“Sweeten a bottle of Claret or Burgundy to your taste, and heat it up slowly in a pan with a stick of Cinnamon. As soon as it approaches boiling point (for on no account must it actually boil), take it off the fire, remove the Cinnamon stick, and serve the hot wine in glasses in the bottom of which there is already a slice of lemon.”

Guys and Dolls and Fireside Rum Tea

Thinking about Raymond Chandler reminded me of another vintage American comfort read - Damon Runyon’s funny, charming, occasionally shocking, New York Stories centred around the gangsters, hustlers, and dancers of Broadway and the Bowery in the prohibition era.

Treading similar boards, but each with their own distinctive atmosphere I can also recommend Gypsy Rose Lee’s 2 murder mysteries which are currently in print, and Mae West’s books which sadly are not, but the Virago paperback editions still seem to be available second hand at a reasonable price.

‘Guys and Dolls’ also seems currently to be the most easily available Runyon, the film of the same name is based on it, but any collection of his short stories is worth grabbing. It’s wet, dark, and cold outside, there is no better weather to find yourself in the company of Runyon’s wise guys, dudes, and dolls.

The Fireside Rum Tea is exactly the sort of drink you want in this weather too. This one is inspired by a recipe from Miss Hope’s Teatime Treats. The Hope and Greenwood books are also out of print, which is kind of a shame because it’s where I found the best fudge recipe I’ve ever eaten, and other good things.

I wanted something warm, not to alcoholic, and didn’t want to pound cardamom pods, and couldn’t find any cinnamon sticks (I know I have some somewhere) so the original recipe went by the wayside. What I do have is some Assamica chocolate spice tea from The Tea Maker’s of London (it was an impulse add on when I was ordering some Tarry Souchong for D, which I’ve become particularly fond of. The mail order service is excellent) which has ginger, cardamom, pepper, and cocoa nibs in it. Brewing a cup of this (or any chai or Christmas type tea) saves a lot of messing around.

Cup or glass of tea at the ready add rum to taste - not a white rum, or anything that costs more than £30, I’ve used a golden rum, but I’d happily use spiced rum, or a dark rum like Captain Morgan’s. If you prefer a sweeter drink, flavour it with a bit of maple syrup - add sparingly testing as you go along  because it’s easy to go over the top with this. Give it a good stir and garnish with a slice of clementine or a cinnamon stick.

Rum and tea is an excellent combination and using a spiced tea makes this particularly low effort. I like just enough rum to be able to taste it, the same with the maple syrup, and I can happily report that neither my hands or feet are any longer numb with cold.

Raymond Chandler and Rye Whiskey

In my ideal world Christmas television would have a lot more black and white films in it, and quite a few of them would be classic Noir (which is how I remember it being not so long ago - or is that just how I choose to remember it?). Anyway, it’s ages since I’ve seen a good Raymond Chandler film and I’m missing them.

Fortunately I found a nice fat paperback full of what are being called short stories, but which are novella length, in my local bookshop. I haven’t read any of them, and am very much looking forward to getting stuck in to it. The collection is ‘Killer In The Rain’ published by Penguin.

Another excellent Noir collection which would make a brilliant gift are Sarah Weinman’s Woman Crime Writers anthologies. There are a couple of handsome hard backs which each have 4 novels in them. One book covers the 1940’s, the other the 1950’s. Her ‘Troubled Daughters, Twisted Wives’ selection of short stories is tremendous, and more budget friendly. The Feminist Press also does a good line in Noir, and the Pushkin Vertigo range is worth a look.

Still, it’s Chandler who introduced me to the genre (or at least it was Humphrey Bogart as Philip Marlowe, which is close enough) and his style is so iconic that I keep going back to him.

Chandler brings up booze quite a lot in his books - he gives a slightly unorthodox Gimlet (gin and lime, or lime cordial) recipe in one of them, but along with ‘Killer in the Rain’ I’m also eyeing up a bottle of Wild Turkey Rye whisky that I found at the back of my wardrobe, an unopened survivor of last Christmas.

Due to a youthful prejudice in favour of Scottish single malt whisky, I don’t know as much about American whiskey as I should. Good bourbon isn’t to hard to find on UK high streets. Maker’s Mark,  and Woodford Reserve are staples which won’t let you down, and taking those as a benchmark there’s  plenty more to explore (Waitrose does a decent selection, wine merchants will always be able to advise you, and any big supermarket ought to come up with something worthwhile).

Straight Rye whiskey turns out to be harder to find. The difference between the two is the base grain used - Bourbon uses a corn mash that gives a sweet, full bodied, profile. Rye produces something drier and spicier. When I say harder to find, there’s obviously no shortage of choice online, but I find delivery charges push the price higher than I generally like, and it’s not always easy to be in for deliveries that have to be signed for. Waitrose is generally good for spirits (not so much for liqueurs) which is where I found the Wild Turkey Rye, I also have a really good local shop that specialises in spirits.

I wanted my Rye specifically for cocktails (probably a Manhattan, but as it goes I’m still using bourbon to make them) although I’m open to drinking it on the rocks too. After years of being a malt snob it turns out that it’s never to late to learn about new things, and Rye with its dry, spicy, nose does an excellent job of evoking good cologne and leather shoes, along with dark bars and late nights.