Saturday, September 21, 2024

Martini - Alice Lascelles

If 20 years in the wine trade gave me a really strong set of prejudices about anything it centres around making cocktails at home. When it comes to most things wine, beers, or spirit related there isn't a right or wrong - if that odd food match works for you go for it. Buy the wine you enjoy, drink whatever neon-hued liqueur takes your fancy (there may be mild prejudice there), and if a mass produced lager appeals more than an artisanal brew - well, you get the idea. 

With cocktails and most things pertaining to them I strongly believe there's a right and a wrong way to go about things, partly born out of bitter and expensive experience in the early days of learning about them using crappy 80s guides and not great ingredients. 

the first rule to observe is that unless you're prepared to invest serious time, money, and effort, leave the really fancy stuff for going out to a really fancy bar. The second is to start with a good book. Alice Lascelles writes very good books full of really practical advice and her deep dive into the Martini is a joy.

If ever there was a drink designed to tweak into your own signature serve it's a Martini. It's veered from super dry to sweet and fruity over its long life - where hits the spot for you is a matter of personal judgement, there's a good bit of fun to be had in working that out. 


So going back to rule 2, and what makes this such a good book is the way it breaks everything down and covers all the practicalities. For a drink that can be neat gin or vodka the details matter - starting with ice, working through glassware, and finishing up with ingredients. For most of us, all of these things need to be sensibly priced - and that's exactly what Lascelles recommends. Glasses that aren't too large - you don't want your Martini to have time to warm up (and I don't want it in knock-out quantities either) mid-priced, and easily available, ice trays that work well, and make decent sized cubes - the details matter.

The choice of ingredients is smart here too, easily available, premium but not super premium spirits, and discussion around the differences different vermouths make to a drink. There's also a useful guide to the properties of vermouth and that it doesn't keep well - so one bottle at a time and take the time to consider which flavour profile works for you. 

From there the recipes come with tips for garnishes and how to prepare them, and an entertaining little potted bio of each iteration. I love this book, I've loved reading it, am looking forward to drinking from it, and am planning on giving it widely this Christmas to stylish friends who imbibe. It ticks all the boxes. 


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