Sunday, April 30, 2017

Mull and Iona

From Inverness it was on to Mull via Oban and the delights of a Cal Mac ferry. Oban is the ferry port for Mull, Coll, Tiree, Lismore, Barra and Colonsay. The train drops you right next to the ferry terminal so the harbour really is the focus of the town for visitors. I guess that most people pass through Oban with an hour or two to fill in much the same way that we did. There's a distillery that's worth a visit, and a branch of Waterstones that's remarkable for being just about the only place I didn't buy a book this trip (not for lack of temptation, but rather a moment of clarity where I questioned the wisdom of hauling a small library round the Highlands and Islands with me). There are some great fish restaurants too, but my overwhelming sense of the place is of being in a sort of extended departure lounge.

Hotel bedroom view.



Apart from a visit to Islay a decade ago the western isles are pretty much a mystery to me, and Mull, because of the Sea Eagles, has long been in my wish list. I didn't see a Sea Eagle this time, so obviously will have to go back.

All islands have there own distinct flavour (theoretically I know this, but it's still a surprise how different the ones I've been to feel), my first impression of Mull was one of general affluence, and that tourism is a big part of that. For such a small population it's particularly well provided with cafes.  We only had two and a half days in Mull which isn't nearly long enough - another reason to go back.


The second thing you notice about Mull is the roads. They're mostly single track and spectacularly twisty - it took us almost 2 hours to drive 50 miles, at the height of the tourist season it would be even slower going. This was fine for me, I don't drive, so was free to look out the window and enjoy the scenery (everything looks like a postcard), probably less fun for D. If anyone reading this ever plans a trip to Mull, plan it carefully, it's quite a big island, everything will probably take longer than you think to get to, and it's not really the sort of driving that invites you to get in a car and keep going until something looks good. That's part of its charm.

Tobermory looks exactly like its pictures and is utterly charming, everywhere seemed to do great food, there's another distillery at one end of the harbour, and all the comings and goings of the boats was mesmerising. We stayed at the Western Isles Hotel (it's seen better days but has relatively new ownership and is undergoing rolling refurbishments. Any shabbiness was more than made up for by the most spectacular view, friendly helpful staff, and that it had featured in a film I love, 'I Know Where I'm Going'.) which I loved. I can't overstate how good the view was, and whilst we didn't see those eagles the hotel terrace was filled with swallows each evening, watching them at (very) close quarters over a gin and tonic was wonderful.

Iona is just off the end of Mull, and again it's picture postcard perfect, in a day when it was supposed to rain we had glorious sunshine, the whole lot looked like a painting by Francis Cadell. Whatever we didn't have the opportunity to see on Mull, I have at least come away with a much better image and understanding of all sorts of things I've read in the past about the west coast of Scotland, and a much better appreciation of the work of the colourists who I've always been a bit dismissive of in the past. I really want to go back.

10 comments:

  1. So glad that you got into the islands. Tobermory is charming if a bit touristy and the rest of Mull is spectacular in many different ways. But best of all is Iona. It is knock your socks off beautiful and very spiritual. Getting there is easy but the long drive will discourage many. That is just fine. It is a very special place and one that I hope to see again some time. Unlikely at my age but a pleasant goal. As an islander I love visiting islands, at least "rural" islands and islands far out to sea. Oddly enough I rummaged out an Iona Community card today which includes a brief history of St. Columba. The striking black and white print on the front is from a drawing by J. H. Miller for THEY BUILT ON ROCK and I was about to look on Ebay for some more.

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  2. I loved Mull, and hope to go back to explore it more, especially now I have a better idea of what that means! It is touristy, especially Tobermory, but not in a bad way, at least certainly not to my way of thinking. Tourist money clearly keeps the place going, and in some comfort. I hadn't realised how small the population was (just under 3000) so the constant influx of visitors is probably what allows a lot of the people who live there to do so. The good pubs and cafes are a definite bonus, and the general friendliness makes it feel like people are happy enough with the status quo. That the wildlife is a selling point is a good thing too. For Mull it definitely works, or looks like it does - my short visit probably isn't long enough to really tell. It's a great holiday destination though. Iona is unique, unlike anywhere I've ever been, and when the sun came out...

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  3. Long wanted to visit Tobermory and the Western Isles Hotel (I too am a huge fan of I know where I'm going). On my wish-list to visit this year.

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  4. It was great. The hotel is shabby in places - our bathroom was in need of some work, but it was clean. The room was lovely; spacious, comfortable beds, amazing views, quiet, proper sized towels. The staff were lovely, and the food was good, so despite it being a bit battered in places I'd go back any time. For all it's dilapidations I've never enjoyed staying in a hotel more.

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  5. I spent some time on Ebay last night looking for more cards from the Iona community and coming up blank. Their website has a lot of e-cards and digital stuff, which is so out of tune with how I think of Iona that I was really surprised. I always think of it as a very dreamy sort of spirituality mixed with an artistic community and environmental stuff. I could so happily live there or in Ormsaigbeg. There is a blog called the Kilchoan Diary which is all about the Ardnamurchan Peninsula -- it is one of my absolute favorites, and the writer, Jonathan Haylett often includes snippets about going over to Mull (a ferry ride away) for the dentist, or shows long scenic vistas down towards Mull across the water on what is the most western part of "continental England." It is an incredibly lvely part of the world and equal only to SW Ireland for sheer heart throbbing beauty. I love Mull; I love Iona; I love SW Ireland around Skibbereen; I love my own island, and I love parts of the Pacific North West here in the US. I am so happy to live on an island (you must miss your island home!) -- it is a very special way of life.

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    1. I do miss island living, though sometimes when I'm speaking to my mother about what it was like for her (living on a very small island) when we were children I wonder how I'd manage. Tobermory wouldn't be a problem!

      I think Iona might have changed a bit, still beautiful, but there's a trail of gift/craft shops lining the road to the church, and a very large gift shop selling fudge, stuffed highland cow toys, shortbread etc sits just off the cloister. There's nothing dreamy about charging £1.50 for a vending machine coffee. But then they have to find ways to pay the bills so...

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  6. I'm so glad I visited Mull and Iona when my husband and I were able to be carefree adventurers. Disappointed that we couldn't get to Staffa, despite two tries, and also Bardsley Island. Weather! I do still mean to get to Shetland before I hang it up, though.

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  7. I hope you make it one day, and really hope I manage to meet you on your next uk trip.

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  8. I didn't even make it to Oban this time - we stayed mostly in Ayrshire with a day trip to see my friend in Argyll. It was all beautiful though and the sun shone almost all the time.

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    1. Sounds perfect. I like what I've seen of Ayrshire and would like to explore more of it. It's a remarkably beautiful country.

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